A selection of bottles of various sizes.

How to Bottle Mead

Now you should have a clear mead to your desired sweetness ready to bottle. Traditional meads can be bottled in any coloured glass without skunking from light exposure. If your mead contains hops or herbs, we would suggest brown bottles to avoid any issues.

What type of bottle should you use? This largely depends on your mead. We’ve split our advice into carbonated/non-stabilised meads or non-carbonated/stabilised meads.

Non-Carbonated or Stabilised Meads

This category is for dry or stabilised meads. If those criteria are met, you can use any bottle you wish. You are not concerned with pressure in the bottles from continued fermentation: therefore, it is completely safe.

Carbonated or non-stabilised meads

This category requires heavy-duty bottles or kegs due to the fact that the bottle will experience pressure. Absolutely do not use wine bottles with corks!

The following vessels do well here:

  • Beer bottles with crown caps
  • Beer bottles with swing tops
  • Champagne bottles with caps or caged corks
  • Belgian ale bottles with caged corks
  • Stainless steel growlers
  • Kegs

These bottles are safe for this purpose. Beware that stalled meads should never be bottled. If you didn’t hit your expected gravity, beware!

Bottle Closure Tips

A few quick tips about closures for your bottles.

Crown Caps

Make sure your crown caps are the oxygen-scavenging kind.

Standard 26mm beer caps work on most beer bottles, but you will need a slightly larger 29mm size for champagne bottles.

Invest in a metal capper. The plastic cappers always seem to break at the worst times.

Corks

Buy high-quality corks. Even the best-quality corks don’t last forever. Check with the manufacturer to determine how long the cork lasts before you need to re-cork your bottles.

If you are corking a carbonated mead, you will need a cork cage to reinforce the cork when combined with champagne bottles or Belgian ale bottles.

Swing Tops

Be sure to check the integrity of the rubber O-ring. They will need to be replaced from time to time.

Remove the O-ring during sanitisation to check for any debris.

How to Bottle Non-Carbonated Mead

Bottling is easiest when you have a pour spout on the side of the demijohn. If you do not have a pour spout, then a self-priming auto siphon with a bottling stick attachment is best.

  1. Sanitise all equipment, bottles, and enclosures.
  2. Remove mead from the fridge. Cold mead oxidises at a slower rate. Bottling while the mead is cold helps preserve fresh flavours.
  3. Place the siphon arm into the demijohn and prime the siphon with a bottling stick attached.
  4. When priming the siphon, place the bottling stick into a bottle and press down. This will allow the mead to flow.
  5. Keep gently pressing down on the bottling stick until the bottle is full. The bottling stick will displace some liquid. Be sure to fill the bottle slightly more to account for this.
  6. Remove the pressure from the bottling stick and place it in the next bottle.
  7. Close the bottle using an appropriate closure specific to the bottle type.
  8. Repeat until all the mead has been bottled.
  9. Pour any sediment into a tall, thin bottle. Pop this bottle in the fridge for a few days, and you will have more mead to enjoy. Or enjoy cloudy… we won’t judge.

Minimising Oxygen Exposure

When bottling, oxygen is the enemy. Mead that is oxidised has a wet cardboard-type flavour. A few key steps can help you avoid oxygenation.

Stabilisation not only prevents fermentation but also protects against oxygenation. As always, stabilising is best. Alternatively, bottling mead that is still cold from cold crashing is another way to protect from oxygenation. Chemical reactions such as oxygenation are vastly slowed at cold temperatures.

Storing Mead

Mead is pretty forgiving of storage conditions, but room temperature in a dark area is always our suggestion. Why tempt fate with your precious mead? The common advice is that mead gets better with age. This advice stems from poor fermentation practices before we scienced everything. With the proper fermentation practices that we’ve described in this course, most mead is good straight out of the fermenter. Even better after clearing.

Aging Mead

Traditional meads can be aged without any issues as long as they are protected from oxygenation. They often develop a richer honey profile over time. Especially around the 6-month mark. In some rare cases, we’ve experienced meads that have gone through a “dumb” phase. Dumb phase is a wine term that means the flavours are muted right after bottling. Don’t worry. They come back after a few months in the bottle. As I said, this is rare, but it does encourage you to hide a few bottles.

Fruit, herb, and sometimes oaked meads are often better young than aged. These flavors tend to fade over time, thus losing the balance you achieved at bottling. Coffee meads are especially notorious for having a tight window of being at peak. A bit of trial and error is required to figure out the sweet spot on these meads!

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